Jump to content


Toggle shoutbox Squawkbox Open the Shoutbox in a popup

Please don't post Youtube videos in the chat box. The forums software auto embeds them. 

@  Kalidor : (22 July 2017 - 09:45 PM)

I think the official meaning is that a namesake is the person or thing that is named after something else. So the USS Kalidor would be Kalidor's namesake

@  Pennpenn : (22 July 2017 - 08:30 PM)

I thought it was either?

@  SHIELD Agent 47 : (22 July 2017 - 08:27 PM)

It is very irritating that no one seems to agree on whether the word "namesake" refers to the thing that came first or the thing that came second.

@  2017 : (22 July 2017 - 07:19 PM)

I'd like it, but I really don't have the cash or the justification.

@  Paladin : (22 July 2017 - 02:48 PM)

Anyone still need a Chaos on Velocitron set? Found one at TRU today...

@  TheMightyMol... : (22 July 2017 - 01:27 PM)

He REALLY likes blowing stuff up.

@  Dekafox : (22 July 2017 - 12:42 PM)

G1 Scattershot's 3rd mode gimmick?

@  MEDdMI : (22 July 2017 - 12:04 PM)

Nothing can be more awkward than the crotch rubsigns.

@  Bass X0 : (22 July 2017 - 11:28 AM)

well, they had to go somewhere.

@  Pennpenn : (22 July 2017 - 02:54 AM)

TR Quake's shoulder symbols are very awkward looking

@  Kalidor : (21 July 2017 - 10:58 PM)

..er myself.

@  Kalidor : (21 July 2017 - 10:58 PM)

NOT RESPONDING

@  Kalidor : (21 July 2017 - 10:58 PM)

...

@  Kalidor : (21 July 2017 - 10:58 PM)

....

@  Kalidor : (21 July 2017 - 10:58 PM)

Couldn't say it bett.....

@  Steevy Maximus : (21 July 2017 - 10:33 PM)

You just don't appreciate the speed of a solid state drive until you have to use an old laptop with an old spinning drive

@  Patchouli Kn... : (21 July 2017 - 08:32 PM)

If there's at least one, you can army-build.

@  NotVeryKnightly : (21 July 2017 - 07:25 PM)

Are there even enough toys of him to collect?

@  TheMightyMol... : (21 July 2017 - 04:21 PM)

A nerd.

@  Nevermore : (21 July 2017 - 04:19 PM)

Speaking of, what do you call someone who collects toys of the Marvel character The Collector?

@  Nevermore : (21 July 2017 - 04:18 PM)

What about people who collect the "Die Hard" movies?

@  wonko the sane? : (21 July 2017 - 03:54 PM)

A lot of the die hard collectors don't need to be louder...

@  SHIELD Agent 47 : (21 July 2017 - 03:22 PM)

@Nevermore Benbot means "amped" as in excited. I believe the term is shorthand for (a sound) amplifier.

@  Nevermore : (21 July 2017 - 03:10 PM)

Or is "shorthand" a synonym for "amputated"?

@  Nevermore : (21 July 2017 - 03:10 PM)

Is "amped" shorthand for "amputated"?

@  Benbot : (21 July 2017 - 12:28 PM)

I am amped! But I also have standards.

@  Fear or Courage : (21 July 2017 - 08:38 AM)

I consider Thew to basically be the model toy collector. We should all aim to be so amped about the thing we collect.

@  Pennpenn : (21 July 2017 - 07:21 AM)

And some people are just whiny jerks who like to complain about stuff and don't realise that, so will invent irrational grievances to fuel that need.

@  Rycochet : (21 July 2017 - 06:13 AM)

A lot of toy collectors don't seem to get that the things the collect are toys.and have unrealistic expectations of what's doable in a modern retail environment. You're not going to get a $100 figure's worth of parts and paint for $20 or less and gimmicks are needed tomake the toys actually, you know, fun.

@  Foffy : (20 July 2017 - 09:40 PM)

Not necessarily. With the right condiments, they can taste surprisingly nice.

@  Evac : (20 July 2017 - 09:37 PM)

I think most toy collectors are bitter in some form.

@  Diecast : (20 July 2017 - 09:37 PM)

...or maybe I'm the bitter one?!  Oh no.

@  Diecast : (20 July 2017 - 09:32 PM)

And I don't even mean that everyone should love it all. But it does seem to bring the angrier ones in from the lurking.

@  Diecast : (20 July 2017 - 09:29 PM)

It's these reveals that always remind me how exceptionally bitter a large portion of toy collectors are on other forums.

@  Sean Whitmore : (20 July 2017 - 07:06 PM)

SDCC toy reveals make adults happy by telling them what they can get eventually. Kids don't care what they can get eventually, you make them happy by getting them whatever's available now.

@  Jalaguy : (20 July 2017 - 06:10 PM)

They exist, they just don't show them at SDCC because they assume that the adult fanbase doesn't care about them.

@  Steevy Maximus : (20 July 2017 - 06:03 PM)

On SDCC stuff...I'm disappointed, but not surprised, at the lack of the actual KIDS toys among all the toys for us old men

@  Steevy Maximus : (20 July 2017 - 04:15 PM)

:burn

@  Steevy Maximus : (20 July 2017 - 04:15 PM)

SSA response? "How would we know to un enroll you if you don't tell us?"

@  Steevy Maximus : (20 July 2017 - 04:14 PM)

I'm supposed to un-enrolled in Medicare at the end of the month (36 months post-transplant), but I'm getting a bill for next quarter's coverage.

@  Steevy Maximus : (20 July 2017 - 04:14 PM)

I would LOVE to have ONE THING done correctly and promptly by the Social Security Administration

@  Ms Virion : (20 July 2017 - 02:22 PM)

=(

@  SHIELD Agent 47 : (20 July 2017 - 01:43 PM)

Noooo!!!!!

@  Paladin : (20 July 2017 - 01:39 PM)

well shit... https://uk.style.yah...-182818808.html

@  Kalidor : (19 July 2017 - 08:46 PM)

https://www.allspark...rive-questions/

@  wonko the sane? : (19 July 2017 - 07:53 PM)

So good it'll whack you in the lobanza.

@  Bass X0 : (19 July 2017 - 06:12 PM)

mafiace cream?

@  Bass X0 : (19 July 2017 - 04:49 PM)

adios mafia.

@  Patchouli Kn... : (19 July 2017 - 03:26 PM)

for ice cream

@  MEDdMI : (19 July 2017 - 02:52 PM)

But he must scream.


Photo
- - - - -

FIXES for Tf Animated figures


This topic has been archived. This means that you cannot reply to this topic.
168 replies to this topic

#1 Jin Saotome

Jin Saotome

    Customizer

  • Citizen
  • 469 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 04:48 AM

Wow, I just saw 14 pages of problems with the Animated figures! Now I agree that they should come without problems right out of the box but sometimes there's things that need to be worked out with a new series.

First, if you have a complaint, contact Hasbro with this form: http://hasbro.custhe...25sJnBfcGFnZT0x

I get a response from them every time and have talked to them about subjects from loose joints to unpaintable plastic on their figures. This is how they get feedback from us, we have to do out part in telling them what's wrong. The form is easy to fill out and will only take you a few minutes.

But since you've already bought your figures it's time to fix the ones you have. Some pictures are supplied below the fixes for you as well. These are the fixes that worked with my figures.


Loose Ball Joints
In the case of Grimlock, Prime, megatron, prowl, etc they all have balljointed sections. These are easy to fix. First pop the offending limb off. Take your superglue and drip just a little but on the ball-post, not inside the cup. Spread it around a bit and do NOT put it back in. Let the superglue cure by sitting there or hit it with a hairdryer until it forms a nice, shiny, hard shell. Reattach it. This fixed my Grimlock, 2-pack Prime and Megatron's hips, and Prowl's shoulders. Depending on how loose the ball-joint is it may take a few coats.

This fix should work for almost any figure unless the ball post is made of the dreaded unpaintable/unglueable plastic. Then you option is to drip the superglue on the ball post and snap it back into place while it's still wet! Since the ball post is made of the special plastic the superglue will only adhere to the ball-cup making for a tighter fit. Just gently move the limb loose after it cures. But make sure the ball-post is made of the unpaintable plastic, not clear plastic like 2-pack's Megatron's hip. Black Arachnia's mandibles are a good example of what unpaintable plastic is. It's also the kind that's used for the inner disc of a Marvel Legends shoulder or hip joint. Kinda waxy and tough plastic.




Loose swivel/cut-joints
These can be a little more difficult. Starscream has them in his thighs, so does Voyager megatron. They like to pop out because the ratchet system on the hip (not the character, the clicking noise, heh) is stronger than the cut joint-plug below it. The fix can be done two ways, sometimes one works and other times the next works. Fix 1 is to do the superglue trick as described in the tightening ball-joints. Take the cut joint apart and apply a thin layer of superglue to the end of the peg where the ridge is. Usually this is towards the top of the peg or around it. Let the superglue cure then pop it back into place. This usually tightens the joint up enough so it doesn’t pop out.

If this doesn’t work or the sections are made of Unpaintable plastic, then you’ll have to do the Burning-Blade technique. Sounds dangerous eh? It can be, just be careful. What you want to do is heat up the end of your x-acto knife with a lighter or use a soldering Iron and touch the end of the peg, melting it slightly and making it wider. Some people cut an ‘X’ into the top with the heated blade, thus flaring it out some that way. I had to do this with Starscream’s right leg because it kept falling off.

The last-ditch effort is to drill a hole in both ends then drive a screw into one end. Clip the head of the screw off and then ‘screw on’ the opposite part until they become one piece. Unless you turn the part more than 360 deg, it will stay together that way.



Crappy Paint
Ah, you’ll have to touch up your figures by hand to combat this problem. I recommend Testors Model Master Acrylics. I use the Fantasy line and their regular Acrylic line. Head to their site and click on the Model Masters banner to be taken to this page: http://testors.com/b....asp?brandNbr=4 There you can view the Color Charts and see what shades you need to match. Depending on your monitor colors you may need to adjust the shade of paint when you get it so I buy some white, black, gray, and a few other colors to mix with my paints to obtain different shades. Like for Grimlock’s gray I had to use Gunship Gray mixed with some Bear Brown to get that shade. His red needed Dragon Red lightened slightly with some white, or Rust mixed with some Bloode Red.

Loose hinge Joints
This requires a bit more finesse. Most of the voyager figures have clicky hinge joints in their knees, elbows, shoulders, etc. But then there’s the case of just a regular hinge without the clicky. Sometimes those are loose and you’ll need a superglue trick to fix them. Drip a very small amount of superglue in the hinge and wait 5 seconds, then move it. Wait a little longer, move it slightly again. Keep messing with it so it doesn’t completely set up but slowly starts getting tighter. After about 2-3 minutes the joint will be much tighter. Repeat as needed. Works great on Marvel legends figs!

Grimlock’s slide-in arm fix
Welcome to the advanced class as this fix takes a few more steps. First pop off Grimmys leg and unscrew all three screws. You’ll have to pop the thigh apart with a tad bit of effort because there’s still a peg or two holding it together.

Once you have the leg apart, look at the end of the black arm section. There’s two spinny sections. Those sections slide in the thigh groove. Take your hobby knife and carefully shave the back of the spinny black things into a slant leaving the front to remain flat so it will stop the arm from coming out.

Next take your Dremel tool or something you can scrape plastic out with and shave inside the groove that’s in the thigh. Remember how his thigh bulged out when you pressed the leg in? We’re shaving the inner sides to give that black piece of plastic more room. I suspect you could skip this step and just shave the black spinner sections thinner overall but I didn’t want to risk the arm being pulled out because there was too much clearance.

Now test fit it together. Grimlock’s arm now moves all the way in!




Ok, hope that helped with a lot of the fixes. Remember this is just a guide and your results may vary depending on your tools and skill level. These worked for my figures and now everything stays tight and together on my figures. More fixes to come as I figure them out. Know of a problem that wasn’t listed? Email me at jinsaotome@hotmail.com, I’ll pick up the figure and post a fix when I have time. Thanks for reading!


**Edit for new fixes**

Here’s the fixes for the range of motion on Prowl’s knees, Lockdown’s hands, and Bumblebee’s stingers. Props to the people who came up with any of these fixes first! I believe Prowl’s knee fix was posted somewhere here so I’m basically just adding pictures.


Lockdown’s Hands
Poor Lockdown has funky wrists, his hands don’t fold out all the way. Snag your Dremel tool or Hobby Knife and cut a square out of the bottom portion of his hand as shown in the pic. If you just have a hobby knife you’ll need to score at it over and over until you can dig it out. I used the tip of a mini-screwdriver to help. Do it right and his hand will gain full-fold-out range





Bumblebee’s Stingers
They don’t fold in all the way and look funny sticking out when he’s in robot mode. Fix this by folding the Stingers out and using your Dremel tool or hobby knife to remove the two square bits of plastic behind the post that the stingers hinge on. With those out of the way his Stingers fold all the way in when his hands are folded out.





Prowl’s knee range of motion
This is an easy fix, all you have to do is trim the bottom of the hip-pad at an angle. This allows the sides of his knees to clear the pad and get a good 90 degree angle.




Voyager Megatron's Cannon
Meg's arm cannon is kinda 'floating' there on a hinge when you get him. You can make the cannon fold flat against his arm by carving a chunk out of the support bar that gets in the way. Tho the cannon will still be laying on its side, it looks better and doesn't throw him off-balance as bad.


Edited by Jin Saotome, 12 June 2008 - 05:25 AM.


#2 Dvandom

Dvandom

    Purveyor of Ponies. And Physics.

  • Supporter
  • 15439 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 07:09 AM

And here's the cruddy photos of the two fixes I've done:

Lockdown's Hands:

From reports I've heard, removing material from the hand is much safer than removing it from the forearm.



Voyager Megatron's Cannon Strut:



---Dave
DAVE'S WEBPAGES
-- www.eyrie.org/~dvandom/BW --
NEWS, REVIEWS and SIGHTINGS
-- www.dvandom.com --
ARTWORK and IMAGES

Pssst...if you
can't see my images,
try my deviantArt!

#3 (Deactivated) St4IzScIz34IMI

(Deactivated) St4IzScIz34IMI
  • Guests

Posted 11 June 2008 - 08:23 AM

Great Information!

#4 (Deactivated) MaxGoof

(Deactivated) MaxGoof
  • Guests

Posted 11 June 2008 - 08:42 AM

QUOTE(St4IzScIz34IMI @ Jun 11 2008, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Great Information!


My Ratchet's waist/legs joint is incredibly loose to the point where he just flops over and can't stand up. What kind of joint is that one? What should I do?

#5 Sprocket

Sprocket

    Problematic.

  • Citizen
  • 8814 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 09:08 AM

It's not really a 'fix', but Nutjob and Wingus have pointed out that by making just a hairline cut off the bottom of Prowl's 'thigh vents', his knees can bend back far more than they could before.
Being part of any fandom is fundamentally embarassing.

#6 Cheetimus Primal

Cheetimus Primal

    Commissions! cheetimus@cheetimus.com

  • Retired Staff
  • 48468 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 10:07 AM

I'm lazy so someone else should show how to fix the stingers on Bumblebee so they fold in properly.

Edited by Cheetimus Primal, 11 June 2008 - 10:12 AM.

24674394486_13a96b16e0_o.jpg

#7 Nutjob R/T

Nutjob R/T

    I love this thread.

  • Citizen
  • 23966 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 10:09 AM

Indeed.

I only figured it out because when I got Prowl out of the package, the pad on his right leg had been snapped clean off. That freed up his knee to flex 90 degrees compared to the left, restricted at a bit less than 45. I'm betting whoever had to wrestle it into vehicle mode to pack it up got a bit frustrated and used the dreaded unnecessary force, since said pad is buried deep within a big hollow of the forward cowling, and thus shipping impacts would have had to shatter all that before getting to the leg.

So, anyhow. You want a knife as sharp as you can get it, and a screwdriver. Remove the screw in one thigh, then pull the thigh pad out a little bit. Bend the knee to see how far it goes, and how the black lower leg interferes with the gold pad.

Here's a simple image I hacked up, a guide to how the pad on the left leg should be trimmed.



A is the front of the pad, B is the backside. C shows the visible cutline from the front, but D and E show how it's actually scooped out from behind. You need to, basically, make a little hollow behind the pad, for the black lower leg to tuck up underneath. If you just cut it off square, you'd be taking a big, unsightly gouge out of the plastic.

There's a fair amount of plastic you'll be taking off, so you'll be at it for a while. Again, you want an extremely sharp knife, for safety reasons; A dull knife you have to push hard to cut with, so if you slip there'll be a lot of force behind it. With a sharp knife, you'll be cutting with far less force; And with less force, you'll slip less often.

The plastic cuts oddly; It HATES you trying to cut out chips or chunks. If you make two cuts to try and hack out a V-shaped chunk, the point of the wedge will bend away from the knife and resist releasing the point of the chip, so the valley of the gouge will get real ugly real quick. You want to shave it, more than hack at it. A sharp knife will just glide through it; If you start feeling resistance against the knife, you're cutting too deep.
Earth is Kill because Santa.

#8 Jin Saotome

Jin Saotome

    Customizer

  • Citizen
  • 469 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 02:02 PM

QUOTE(MaxGoof @ Jun 11 2008, 06:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE(St4IzScIz34IMI @ Jun 11 2008, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Great Information!


My Ratchet's waist/legs joint is incredibly loose to the point where he just flops over and can't stand up. What kind of joint is that one? What should I do?


I don't have Ratchet yet so I'm not sure. Do you mean he falls over because of both hips (in that case use the Superglue method where I showed Prowl in the pic) or he has some sorta torso-joint that makes him bend forward?

And ooh, I have Bumblebee now, I'll get on that. Also I have a pic of Prowl's kneepad fix that Nutjob posted (thanks btw!) if anyone needs it.

Lockdown I just picked up as well, I'll see about the best way to fix his hands.


Edited by Jin Saotome, 11 June 2008 - 02:03 PM.


#9 (Deactivated) nilocomic

(Deactivated) nilocomic
  • Guests

Posted 11 June 2008 - 02:13 PM

I heard another way to give Prowl more clearance around those thigh pads is to unscrew those pads out, switch them, flip them 180 degrees, and screw them back in. Avoids all the cutting. Here's a link to where I read that.

Edited by nilocomic, 11 June 2008 - 02:14 PM.


#10 Quietone

Quietone
  • Citizen
  • 160 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 02:28 PM

QUOTE(nilocomic @ Jun 11 2008, 02:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I heard another way to give Prowl more clearance around those thigh pads is to unscrew those pads out, switch them, flip them 180 degrees, and screw them back in. Avoids all the cutting. Here's a link to where I read that.



That's what I did. Worked great.

Does anyone know how I go about fixing Lugnut's cockpit? It just won't stay in place in vehicle mode.

#11 Nutjob R/T

Nutjob R/T

    I love this thread.

  • Citizen
  • 23966 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 02:33 PM

There's a joint inside Ratchet's torso, at about kidney level, where the hips swing down and forward from underneath the van for vehicle mode. I can feel the faintest of resistance when getting to robot mode, but it's hardly a snap or a ratchet.

The hip piece also has a big chunk above that axle, and a semicircular cutout inside the torso for it to rotate through. If you flip up the side boards in vehicle mode and peer through, you can see the tiniest little lump that I assume the hip chunk is supposed to pop over and soft-lock into position, but clearances are off and it won't pop into place.

Getting to it may be impossible, since it's VERY cramped in there, and disassembly of the torso may prove to be impossible because of a pair of blind countersunk rivets holding the windshield in place.

However, I've found pushing the nose down/in to flatten his beer gut, as per instructions, has the spars that hold his front wheels pinch on the spars holding the waist transformation joint, enough so that joint stiffens up a fair amount.

As for Lockdown's wrists, I did a sketch up of that one, too. Dave took a picture of it, if he wants to stick it up here, too.



A is lockdown's hand; The blue bit is half as thick as the grey bit. B is a raised segment inside his forearm; Said forearm is oriented up and down the page.

C shows how the raised bit, and the back of Lockdown's hand, are fighting for the same space. You need to take either a chunk out of the block inside the forearm, or a wedge out of the back of Lockdown's hand; Both options will be hidden in both modes, as long as you don't bugger it up.

But complicating matters is the steel pin that the wrist hinges around; You probably noticed it's a blind pin, impossible to pull out without drilling through the back glass on the bottom of his forearms. So any modifications need to be done while the toy is still assembled.

Personally, I ended up hacking out a wedge from the back of the hand. A BIG wedge. You'll notice, on the back of his hands, a groove near the base of his knuckles, then a small flat on the back of his hand, then a severe bend that slopes back toward the fingernail tab for flipping his hands out. I carved out a wedge all the way up to that bend at the back of his hand.

But the trick is you have to cut it out DEEP, too, all the way in to the black hinge, and make it tangent to the rounded end of that hinge, or else you'll get a wedging-levering action when you fold out the hand and risk snapping off the wrists even easier. So there's a lot of cutting and carving involved with this one.
Earth is Kill because Santa.

#12 Yami4ct

Yami4ct
  • Citizen
  • 151 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 02:38 PM

QUOTE(nilocomic @ Jun 11 2008, 03:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I heard another way to give Prowl more clearance around those thigh pads is to unscrew those pads out, switch them, flip them 180 degrees, and screw them back in. Avoids all the cutting. Here's a link to where I read that.


That's what I did. It worked great. It didn't look hardly any different then before. didn't hinder transformation in any way and freed up his knee.

Another improvement I've love is on my BA. If you take apart her gun and replace the string with a thinner,longer one, you can give her a much longer reach. Be VERY careful with the metal strip that builds the tension, though, as it can snap out very easily and be a pain to put back in. The gun is also a pain to put back together and may need an extra person to hold down parts,etc. Worth it,though.

I also fixed lockdown's hand,just the left, didn't bother with the other, by taking a large chunk out of it that was blocking the turn. I heated up a pocket knife and carefully shaved away the excess plastic. It took 30-45 mins, but it worked and I didn't end up breaking it.

Edited by Yami4ct, 11 June 2008 - 02:42 PM.


#13 Wing

Wing

    Puns will continue until morale improves.

  • Supporter
  • 17937 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 03:36 PM

And for those interested in seeing the difference in a cut thigh panel and a non, here:


Left side is before cutting, right is after.

#14 Daith

Daith

    United, our roar will level Mountains!

  • Supporter
  • 7693 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 03:43 PM

Wish I knew about the Voyager Megs canon problem earlier. I already broke one of the hinges.

Edited by darthirian, 11 June 2008 - 03:43 PM.

3DS Friend Codes : 1633-4354-6578 and 4270-3512-2442 Username: Daith (on both) Pokemon profiles - Trainer Name: X-Phil, Y-Emma Lynn, OR- Mara, AS- Ron Nintendo WiiU ID: Daithirian

#15 mx-01 archon

mx-01 archon

    Hello, world

  • Supporter
  • 18761 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 05:39 PM

QUOTE(Cheetimus Primal @ Jun 11 2008, 08:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm lazy so someone else should show how to fix the stingers on Bumblebee so they fold in properly.


It's nigh impossible to take a picture of the area, since you can't disassemble his forearms without great effort, so I hope I can explain it well enough:

Take a close look inside his forearms near the stinger hinges. There, you'll see two small square-ish blocks of plastic right up against the hinge area. Take a sharp hobby knife and just hack those blocks out of there. Once you know what you're looking for, it's ridiculously easy. About 5 minutes per arm.

#16 Cheetimus Primal

Cheetimus Primal

    Commissions! cheetimus@cheetimus.com

  • Retired Staff
  • 48468 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 06:21 PM

Heh. I went through the effort. It's just banging out pins. The more you do it the better you are at it. It's all about finding out which direction to bang.
24674394486_13a96b16e0_o.jpg

#17 Boss Borot

Boss Borot
  • Citizen
  • 4203 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 07:06 PM

For Bumblebee, I didn't feel like hammering out the pins and the blocks seemed a bit too difficult to get at, so I rounded a bit off of the corners of the stingers near the hinge. They still don't fold in all the way, but they're much better now, and I can transform him to vehicle mode without having the stingers out. I think I'll try chopping at the blocks again to get that last bit of clearance.

The only other figure I have so far is Blackarachnia, and she hasn't needed any modifications yet. I did give her a lot of (terribly sloppy) paint touch-up, though.
I'd love to find a way to give her twisting wrist joints, but I'm afraid I don't have nearly enough skill to make them from scratch.

Edited by Boss Borot, 11 June 2008 - 07:07 PM.


#18 Dvandom

Dvandom

    Purveyor of Ponies. And Physics.

  • Supporter
  • 15439 posts

Posted 11 June 2008 - 08:36 PM



Here's pics of the Bumblebee fix. And it unlocks an automorph feature...stowing the stingers pushes the hands out a little, making them a lot easier for people without long fingernails to get out. icon-hotrod.gif

---Dave
DAVE'S WEBPAGES
-- www.eyrie.org/~dvandom/BW --
NEWS, REVIEWS and SIGHTINGS
-- www.dvandom.com --
ARTWORK and IMAGES

Pssst...if you
can't see my images,
try my deviantArt!

#19 Ave Destron!

Ave Destron!
  • Citizen
  • 5004 posts

Posted 12 June 2008 - 01:44 AM

The Bumblebee stinger fix is really easy to do, and all I had was a little knife.

and now he's even better.
Does anyone see City-Swimmer? Is he gliding beneath the silver water? Is he creeping 'round a corner, hugging a wall, silent as a shadow in the dark?

#20 (Deactivated) Superquad07

(Deactivated) Superquad07
  • Guests

Posted 12 June 2008 - 02:03 AM

Wow, it's odd to see all of the shortcuts that were taken with the Animated figures. It's nice to see many of your providing tutorials for the fixes. Some of the joint tutorials aren't too much of a newsflash though. The Radicons (and other places) have had those resources for many years now. I remember reading the tutorials on the Radicons back many moons ago when it was a Yahoo! Group still . . .

Personally, for joints, I'd advise clear nail polish. It still hardens well over the joint and it doesn't melt plastic like super glue does. Super glue melts things at the molecular level. Oddly enough, the packages that show the cars hanging from the beams can actually be achieved with the original formula. However, for commercial release, the formula is watered down many times. Also, super glue can often times leaves a nasty film. I'm certainly not saying to refrain from using super glue, but I'd recommend experimenting with different things.