Sculpting Sweetie Belle
Posted 07 August 2011 - 12:03 PM
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Posted 07 August 2011 - 09:58 PM
You might notice that I reworked Applebloom?s face, it was too flat before.
And another picture with PVC Applejack, for scale reference:
Next time: Humongous hair bows.
Edited by WorkbenchManiac, 07 August 2011 - 09:59 PM.
Posted 07 August 2011 - 10:25 PM
I swear, if you were in charge of making the molds for Hasbro, I'd never keep any money in my wallet.
Posted 11 August 2011 - 01:03 AM
I also did some work on Appleblooms face. this time rounding out her cheeks slightly.
And now Applebloom is finally done. The sculpt anyway, next I?ll make a mold and cast some copies of this figure. I can?t wait to break out the paints and brushes to give this figure a proper paintjob.
The finished sculpt:
The cured putty is all uniformly colored and a bit translucent, so it might be hard to see the details. Notice those lightly colored areas around the base the tail and on the sides of the legs? They might look like fractures or stress marks, but those are simply areas where different layers of putty have been put on top of one another. Due to the transluscence of the putty they are visible from under the sculpt?s surface.
Applebloom with PVC Applejack and the greens of Opal and Gummy:
And finally a scale reference with a can of DrPepper- just to show how miniscule this stuff really is:
So, what do y?all think?
Posted 11 August 2011 - 09:13 AM
It's coming along very nicely. And I can certainly understand how the bow could give you a good fight; great work as always.
Also, I approve of your choice in beverages.
Posted 15 August 2011 - 01:26 PM
Do it, break out the putty! It would be a lot of fun to have more people around here messing about.
As for the scale, this pony-stuff is a welcome break, usually I sculpt in even smaller scales. The face of the dwarf in my avatar is about as large as one of Applebloom?s eyes.
The mold is done, and the first cast made. This is what a raw cast fresh from the mold looks like:
Since I?m casting manually in flexible silicone molds and only with gravity to push the resin into the mold, I have to use very large resin feeds and a high amount of air ducts and reservoirs. Removing those takes a bit of careful work, so as to avoid any blemishes on the cast.
Since the resin I use has a very low viscosity, it can flow in between the two halves of the mold, creating a thin layer of flash. But flash is no problem, it?s easy to remove, since it is so very thin and will often break off on it?s own.
While I?m at it I also remove the mold lines- at this point I have already spend so much time and effort on the clean up, I won?t have that spoiled by ungainly mold lines.
After carefully cleaning the model with a scalpel and then filling in a few holes (resulting from tiny air bubbles in the resin) with putty we are now ready to start painting:
The light grey color makes it so much easier to see the sculpt, doesn?t it?
Next up: Painting Applebloom.
Posted 15 August 2011 - 05:11 PM
It?s not that hard, really.
The basic "recipe" is as follows:
1. Make a frame to pour the molding silicone into. I use Lego bricks, they are sturdy, cheap, reusable and the ABS plastic does not react with the silicone/hardener.
2. Fill the lower half of the frame with non-hardening putty, like plasticine or play-doh.
3. Embed the sculpt into the putty.
4. Pour the silicone for the first half of the mold into the frame and let it harden.
5. Flip over the frame and remove the putty, leaving the sculpt embedded in the silicone.
6. Pour the silicone for the second half into the frame and let it cure.
7. Remove the frame and take the two halves of the mold apart. Remove the sculpt and cut the feeds and air-ducts into the mold.
Posted 02 September 2011 - 11:54 PM
Alright, let?s kick this off, then:
After a night of sculpting I have now established the rough proportions and started smoothing out the surfaces. There is still a lot to be done of course, but I?m done for today.
I went with the prone pose for Fluttershy, because it both fits her character and adds welcome variation to the regular standing ponies.
Tomorrow I?ll finish this stage of the sculpting process by finishing the face, fixing some odds and ends that still bug me and further smoothing out the surfaces and then I?ll start on the mane, tail and wings.
Until then, I?m off to bed.
Posted 04 September 2011 - 06:17 AM
Sometimes I really hate bilateral symmetry. You think you?re done, and then you notice that the right hind hoof is just a tad smaller than the left one... so you start over with that hoof, rework the surrounding areas accordingly, smooth it all out again... and then you notice another little thing.
Making sure everything is symmetrical took a lot of work, but I think it paid off.
Now it?s off to the oven, then I?ll get started on the mane, tail and wings.
Posted 04 September 2011 - 09:52 AM
So I take it, then, you got a molding process figured out (without having to use so many sections?) I know that came up in regard to the PVCs, but I thought it was a concern with your resin casting on Fluttershy, too.
Posted 04 September 2011 - 10:50 AM
Ooh, gotta keep in mind to take a picture of Scootaloo in the oven when I get around to her.
The problem lies with undercuts, i.e. sections of the sculpt, that, when molded, hinder release, because molding material has wrapped itself around them. Since silicone is elastic it allows for a certain degree of undercuts, but it will tear when stretched too far. In comparison, steel molds do not allow for even the slightest undercuts, due to their rigidity.
Have a crude drawing to visualize it:
The legs are the main problem, but the same would be true for most extremities, such as wings. The usual approach is to seperate the figure into individual pieces, but for the pony stuff I?d rather keep them as solid pieces instead of model kits.
With Apple Bloom I got around this issue by not having space in between the legs. Her hair bow made me worry a bit about release, but it worked out fine.
Fluttershy?s pose eliminates the legs as a source of trouble. Mane and tail will be a challenge, but since I?m casting manually anyway, I can work around that in ways that would be impossible with casting machines, which ar nowhere as forgiving of undercuts. I recently had to majorly retool the dwarf lord seen in my avatar, because the company I sculpted it for had issues with his undercuts tearing their molds.
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